Monday, February 4, 2019

8' Wood SUP Plans! NEW!!!

Easiest to build and cheaper to buy using 8' lumber!




Dimensions: 8' x 34" W x 4 1/2" Thick

Just released! This new SUP design is easier to build using smaller rail strips than the 11' model, and requires 8' lumber which is more readily available. This little guy has almost as much volume as the larger model but is much lighter and more maneuverable than its big brother. At 34" wide it is nice and stable too!! This model can carry riders up to 250lbs and usually weighs around 35lbs+or-, but weight can vary depending on your wood selection. You can adjust the finished Paddle-board size from 10' - 12' long by printing the plans at 90%-110%


Instant Download!

8' SUP Plans & Manual

$30

www.TimelessSurfCompany.com




 

Hollow Wood SUP Plans!



Dimensions: 11' x 30 3/4" W x 4 1/2" Thick

This is a nice "all around" Stand Up Paddleboard, a nice balanced design for all Paddleboarders whether you want to surf it or paddle around on lakes and rivers. This Paddle board is nice and wide and features a domed deck and thick rails. This model can carry riders up to 250lbs and usually weighs around 45lbs+or-, but weight can vary depending on your wood selection. You can adjust the finished Paddle-board size from 10' - 12' long by printing the plans at 90%-110%


Instant Download!

11' SUP Plans & Manual
$30





Materils Needed for your Hollow Wood Surfboard/SUP


What do you need in order to Build Your Own Hollow Wood Surfboard?




 
Materials List:
  • SPINE-      Plywood 3/8" Thick x 6" tall x (surfboard length) long *For 8’+ longboards, you can use an 8’ length and patch it together. See Pg 7 in the instructions
  • RIBS-          1/8" Luan door skin/thin plywood/underlayment 4' x 8' sheet (for ribs)
  • DECKING-  (8) lengths of cedar (Board length) x 1/4" to 3/16" thick, 6" wide (for bottom and deck skins)  *you can purchase (4) 1”x 6” thick cedar planks and rip them into (2) thinner pieces, then plane to desired thickness or ANY combination of widths adding up to 24” wide when glued together (or (30" wide for the SUP)  2”x4”s can be used but it just takes a lot of ripping and planing!
  • RAILS-    (1) 6"Wide x 3/4" thick (thicker for SUP) cedar board to cut into rail strips. See pg. 14
  • Gorilla glue or comparable (Epoxy if you have the money)
  • 1 can of Elmer’s Spray Adhesive or comparable (to glue blueprints to materials)

How much does all this cost?
  Well, it depends a lot on your local prices and your choice of wood (reclaimed lumber saves you a lot of money) but locally I can get all the material from Lowe's or Home Depot for a bout $200 which includes resin and fiberglassing matting.


Equipment List:
  • Dewalt Handheld Jig Saw (Or comparable)
  • Table Saw
  • 12" Table Planer **(not needed if you rip 2x4s into 3/16s sliced)
  • Small Block Plane
  • Handheld Planer **or just use your hand plane and patience
  • at least (20) medium/small spring clamps
  • about (20) 8" to 24" bar clamps **(or you can use tape to glue the slats together if your stock is straight)
  • (11) or so Pine 2x4s (2 at board length- for rocker jig, pg 8-9)
  • 4' length of 4x4 (for ripping jig, pg 10-11) Be sure its straight and square!!!  **Not needed if you rip 2x4s into 3/16 slices
  • 2'x2' thin Luan plywood (for ripping jig)  **Not needed if you rip 2x4s into 3/16 slices
  • Rubber gloves (Gorilla glue is very difficult to get off of your skin!)

Choosing the right wood:
  Choosing the materials for your new board can be tedious in itself, deciding which species to use and then finding workable stock will take some searching around. I highly recommend using cedar for these boards due to its light weight, mold resistance, and strength. Pine can also be used to save money, as it is cheaper and stronger than cedar, but weighs a bit more. Thin luan sheets can be used for decking, but the frame should also be filled with foam to reinforce and avoid soft spots on the deck. Luan also poses a problem with shaping the rails since the plys will show as wobbly stripes, and the lack of thickness give you less leeway while shaping. I have not experimented with other woods for this construction method, though I am pretty sure that redwood would work, but Balsa is too soft. Hardwoods such as Oak and Maple could be used, but it might turn out to be VERY heavy.
  In any case, I recommend using knot free pieces when possible, as the knots have a tendency to get knocked out while planing, and make it more difficult to get a consistent rail, although you can replace any knots that are knocked out by wetting and rolling up planer shavings and gluing the material into the hole. Also, be sure to find pieces with minimal splits and blemishes, and as straight as possible. Luan door skin, underlayment OR comparable thin plywood should be used for the RIBS, and a good knot free sheet of 1/2" plywood should be used for the SPINE. Solid wood should not be used for the ribs and spine, as they have much more tendency to split and flex. Plywood is a lot more rigid for its size since it is made from several layers of wood stacked in cross grain patterns.


Tools:
  You are only as good as the tools you are working with. You can find out the hard way (like I did) or take my word for it. A cheap scroll saw will give you wiggly wobbly cuts, and dull blades will just make the work harder for you and more dangerous! I just upgraded to a nice solid DeWalt tool setup, and I cannot believe the difference in workability! Be sure to get a nice set-up and keep you tools clean and sharp.
  Take your blueprint files to the local print shop to get a copy printed out, either get 2 copies (one for cutting and one for rail reference) or just one if you have computer access to check out the rail layout on the original blueprint file if needed.
  If you are using the "tiled" version of the blueprints to print on your home computer, you will need to tape the sheets of paper together. The best way to do this is to lay your piece of plywood out on a pair of saw horses and mark a nice straight line down the entire length of the board. This will be your reference point for lining up either the horizontal line that is printed across the sheets, or edges of each sheet of paper. This will help you lay each sheet nice and square across the length. I prefer to start at one end of the lumber, laying the first sheet down and lining it up. Tape the top edge of the paper to hold it in place, then fold the sheet up, spray some glue on the wood, and then set it in place. Each sheet should overlay its neighbor until the cross hatch pattern lines up. You can repeat this process until your plans are all laid out to your liking.

Patience:
My father always told me, "Don't be in a hurry to be a failure". This has helped me find the patience in most every project I have taken on, whether it be mechanics, art, or woodworking. This dedication can be seen in the construction details and finishing touches that make each board a work of art as well as a useable tool. The primary material used in construction is cedar, a very light weight wood with a variety of textures, colors and grain, providing excellent contrast and distinct patterns.
   I have made surfboards of most every style and shape with various construction methods including foam, chambered wood, balsa, and pine, all of which have their pros and cons. All of these techniques and ideas have been combined to produce a board that is as fun and rewarding to build as it is to ride. Not as light as a foam board, but lighter than a comparable chambered board. They are more rigid and durable than most and, with proper care, a truly Timeless Design than can be cherished for many many years.



Wood Surfboard Builders Frequently Asked Questions:

Wood Surfboard Frequently Asked Questions:

Q:  How much does a wooden surfboard or PaddleBoard board weigh?
A:  Very comparable to a classic longboard. Usually around 20-30lbs, Stand-Up Paddleboards usually weigh 40lbs plus but these estimates can vary greatly depending on the wood selected.

Q:  What about dings and durability?
A:  These boards are stiffer than a foam board BEFORE they even get glassed.  After they get the standard 6oz glass coat they are very solid.  Dings will be more of a silver spot than an actual ding.  I have yet to have a ding take on water or even dimple a board.  I have had a few HARD knee drops on the rails and the result was a mild silver streak in the finish.  Should you get a ding harsh enough to allow water to penetrate, it should be fixed as soon as possible as the wood will soak up water or worse yet, leak through a seam.  They react just like foam boards, if they are neglected long enough it will lead to discoloration and delam, sometimes even warpage.

Q:  What's that screw on the tail of the Paddleboard?
A:  That is a small vent screw made of corrosion proof nylon.  Since the board is hollow, the air inside will expand and contract when exposed to different temperatures.   Leaving it open when not in use allows the board to breathe, close it while in use to keep the water out.

Q:  Does my Surfboard/Paddleboard HAVE TO have a vent?
A:  Actually, no, I can add foam inside to displace the air.  This makes it a bit more worry free, with only a slight gain in weight.  Now you can find Gore-tex vents that vent automatically without worry, Although 2 are required for the Paddleboards to allow more air to flow.

Q:  They look nice, but  do they surf?
A:   HECK YEAH!!  They are fast, SMOOTH, and they paddle very well, you will notice that the board has a very solid feel, and the weight is hardly noticeably in the water, other than the drive through the mushy sections. 

Q:  How long will it take me to build my own hollow wood surfboard/Standup Paddleboard?
A:  Well, it's hard to say for sure, but I would say about a month for your first one, depending on your woodworking knowledge. It takes me about a week, since I have the jigs made and everything that I need.

Q:  How long will it take to get my plans(or paddleboard kit)?
A:  Plans and Ebook will be sent  via email usually with 1 hour of purchase. Just have them printed and glue them to the wood, then start cutting! Kits usually arrive in 2-12 business days.

Q: Why do you think your blueprints/plans better? 
A:  Well, from my experiences, other "solid rail" building processes have a big flaw in the compound bend of the nose section.   The miter edges on this area don't allow the rails to fully arc up with the nose section.  You end up with either a flat nose, a slight "kink" in the board on each side of the nose, or a hole sanded through the decking trying to smooth it out.  Some other plans are too loose in their design to be consistent, bending and gluing rails before attaching, which looks great on paper but once you release it from the jig, each side "releases" differently, changing the arc.  Not to mention having square ribs that make your board either too thin or makes your rails too thick .  That being said, they are great for making a nice "looking" board, but our shapes are designed to be consistent, manageable to build, and beyond "ride-able", they are truly Timeless designs that will perform and last for a very long time.

Q:  How much will it cost me to build one of these wooden surfboards or Paddleboards?
A:  It depends greatly on what kind of wood you use and where you buy it and also depending on which project you build.  Mini Simmons and Fishs' are much cheaper and Paddleboards can be a bit more.  You could make one for free using reclaimed lumber!  If you bought all the wood at Lowe's or Home Depot, it should cost from $100-$200 (ripping cedar 2x6s) or alot more for pre-cut lumber or other species (not including glass)

Q:  How much does it cost to glass one of these Surf/Paddle-boards?
A:  Using cheap resin you could glass one for about $60, epoxy is about twice that amount, paying for it to get done can be $250 and up, depending.

Q:  Why a cedar Paddleboard?
A:  Cedar is a beautiful wood, the grain is very diverse, colors can vary dramatically for wonderful effects, it is light, cheap, mold and rot resistant, stronger than balsa, easy to work with, readily available, and to top it all off, it smells really good!

Q:  Why should I build a wooden surfboard or Stand Up Paddle Board?
A:   Why not?

New Website!

The new website is up and looking better than ever!  Check out whats new at TimelessSurfCompany.com



  When I first started designing these wood surfboard plans and SUPs, I had no idea that it would grow into such a great avenue to connect woodworkers, shapers, and water lovers everywhere.  Some of my first surfboards were built for a Surf Rider Foundation fundraiser auction in Cocoa Beach, Florida, and this is where my designs really began to get noticed. What started as building boards for myself turned into much more; a website, a book, and lots of new friends all over the world.

  I found that most people who wanted a Hollow Wood Surfboard didn't want to buy one, they wanted wood surfboard plans to BUILD one! After receiving many requests to share my plans, I finally got enough material together to make my books and several plans available.  Now  I get pictures and messages from people all over the world STOKED to be making their own surf gear.   There is nothing like turning a pile of wood into a beautiful surfcraft and gliding across the water on it. Build your own and join the club!

Saturday, February 10, 2018

What's new for 2018?

Hollow Wood Surfboard Plans!  I am now offering instant download version of the blueprints and E-book.  See what's new at www.TimelessSurfCompany.com

How to Build hollow wood SUPs, longboards, fun shapes and fish. Even a nice mini Simmons Hull for the retro thang.  All plans include instructions for building and using my easy triangle rail strip method to build the rails, making you wooden surfboard easier to build and giving you enough meat on the bone to shape your rails to your liking!

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

The best Wood SUP Plans- Paddleboard Blueprints

www.TimelessSurfCompany.com
   Start building your own wood SUP or surfboard TODAY!  My plans are the easiest to build and is almost finished  when assembled, just trim and shape the outer edges.  Don't waste your time and money on cheap-o plans that make flat, featureless logs, or complicated plans with a billion tiny pieces.  My plans feature domed decks, spoon nose option and Vee-tails in the performance boards.  AND they are easy to build with just 4 triangle strips per side!

  See why I sold thousands and helped people all over the world build and ride their own surf craft!  I also offer FREE REAL-TIME email help and can usually answer within the hour (I get instant alerts!)
  Join the community and share your project pics on our Builder's Forum.  Get attention at the beach showing off your new work of art! 
Just CHOOSE YOUR PLANS and get started on your project!
 You get:
THE COMPLETE builder's manual
2 sets of blueprints -one full size file for large printers and 1for printing on a home printer
FREE REAL-TIME help from the author
Online support from our Builder's Forum

Thursday, September 13, 2012

I also found some cheap SUP Paddles on eBay. There are even a few handmade wood paddles for cheao, and a few Carbon fiber ones too!

Check out my eBay Store auctions.

Saturday, July 28, 2012

New Improved 11' SUP Design.

I worked with a few wonderful clients to help develop this new, well balanced, all-around "Timeless" SUP. Whether you want to surf or paddle around on lakes and rivers, this shape can handle it all. Featuring a domed deck and thick rails that can be easily built using only 4 triangular strips per side, making this project much easier to build and more versatile than the “bead and cove” or solid rail building methods.

Decking and rails can be finished with Cedar, Poplar, Redwood, Mahogany, Spruce, Fir or comparable lumber and our builders manual will guide you through the process. And as always, you get real-time help from the author and our online community!





Easy 4 piece rail construction

 James' new SUP!                                                                  Mike in Niceville's new SUP!









New Builder's Supply Store

Check out the new Builder's Supply store I put together to help find all of those accessories and tools in one place. Fin boxes, leash plugs, Wood fins, Poly/Epoxy Resin, Saws, Clamps... Go see for yourself!

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Chambered book now available in Soft Cover

My new book, Building Your Chambered Wood Surfboard, is now available in soft-cover print at Lulu.com as well as the downloadable version directly from their site.  Both editions include one free blueprint download  with proof of purchase (to print at home or at a print shop), or you can purchase the printed version of our plans (U.S. only) and have them shipped it your door.  How exciting is that??
Buy the book, get free blueprints! Only $24.94
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com

Buy our Soft Cover @ Lulu.com

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Paperback version is available!

The new updated book, Building Your Hollow Wood Surfboard, is now available in soft-cover print at Lulu.com as well as the downloadable version directly from their site.  Both editions include one free blueprint download  with proof of purchase (to print at home or at a print shop), or you can purchase the printed version of our plans (U.S. only) and have them shipped it your door.  How exciting is that??
Buy the book, get free blueprints!
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com

Buy our Soft Cover @ Lulu.com

Sunday, June 19, 2011

New Mini Simmons plans now available.

Hello all!  A lot of you asked for a Simmons Style displacement hull, so I got going and built a little 5' 11" twinny out of some cedar that I had been saving for something special.   The plans and pics are now up on the site so go check them out and maybe take on a new project this summer?  Also, if any of you folks have pictures of your projects and you would like to share and put them on our NEW FORUM !  Thanks for all of your support.










 Buy the book, get free blueprints!
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com


Monday, May 23, 2011

A new Mini Simmons style board is in the works!

I had quite a few requests for a nice classic Mini Simmon style board so I got going on it and I'm sure you will be happy with the addition to your quiver.  I am currently testing this new design and it should be available soon if all goes well.  I'm shooting for 5'11" by 23 wide, a nice mid size version of this classic!  Stay tuned.

Buy the book, get free blueprints!
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com

Buy our Soft Cover @ Lulu.com

New SUP plans now available.

Alot of folks were asking for these, so I put together and tested a newly designed SUP.  10' 6" long, 30" wide and 4" thick.  Check out the website to order or check out Amazon page.

  Here is a board built by Rob up in Canada.  NICE!!!

And another super nice SUP built by James Dodd.  Well done!
Buy the book, get free blueprints!
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Updated Plans!!

I have gone through and modified all plans to have the spoon nose option and rail setup laid out for you.  All  you have to do us glue the blueprints to the wood and start cutting.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Wooden Surfboard Building FAQs

Q: How long will it take for me to build my own hollow wood surfboard?
A: Well, it's hard to say for sure, but I would say about a month for your first one, depending on your woodworking knowledge. It takes me about a week, since I have the jigs made and everything that I need.

Q: How long will it take to get my plans?
A: Plans will be sent via email usually with 4 hrs of purchase.

Q: How much will it cost me to build one of these wooden surfboards?
A: It depends greatly on what kind of wood you use and where you buy it. You could make one for free using reclaimed lumber! If you bought all the wood at Lowe's or Home Depot, it should cost from $100-$250 (ripping cedar 2x6s) or a lot more for pre cut lumber or other species (not including glass)

Q: How much does it cost to glass one of these boards?
A: Using cheap resin you could glass one for about $60, epoxy is about twice that amount, paying for it to get done can be $250 and up, depending.

Q: Why cedar?
A: Cedar is beautiful wood, the grain is very diverse, colors can vary dramatically for wonderful effects, it is light, cheap, mold and rot resistant, stronger than balsa, easy to work with, readily available, and to top it all off, it smells really good!

Q: Why should i build a wooden surfboard?
A: Why not?

Q: I would like to test drive one of your boards? Is that possible?
A: Absolutely! These are all that I surf anymore, so they are always in the water. We can swap boards in the water for a couple waves, as long as you know what you are doing and can stay out of the shore pound! Are you going to be in the Cocoa Beach area soon?

More Questions?? Visit us at TimelessSurfCompany.com
Buy the book, get free blueprints now at
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com

Buy our Soft Cover @ Lulu.com

Wood Surf Board FAQs

Q: How long will it take to have one made?
A: Turnaround time is usually about 3 weeks, not including delivery.

Q: How much is shipping?
A: I ship to continental US only. Boards with glass-on fins are a bit more costly to ship than a board with a finbox. Averages in price range from $60-100 for no fin or $100-$200 for glassed on fin. I ship through DBSchenkerUSA.com freight shipping.

Q: How much does a wooden surfboard board weigh?
A: Very comparable to a classic longboard. Usually around 20-30lbs

Q: What about dings and durability?
A: These boards are stiffer than a foam board BEFORE they even get glassed. After they get the standard 6oz glass coat the are very solid. Dings will be more of a silver spot than an actual ding. I have yet to have a ding take on water or even dimple a board. I have had a few HARD knee drops on the rails and the result was a mild silver streak in the finish. Should you get a ding harsh enough to allow water to penetrate, it should be fixed as soon as possible as the wood will soak up water or worse yet, leak through a seam. They react just like foam boards, if they are neglected long enough it will lead to discoloration and delam, someimtes even warpage.

Q: What's that screw on the tail?
A: That is a small vent screw made of corrosion proof nylon. Since the board is hollow, the air inside will expand and contract when exposed to different temperatures. Leaving it open when not in use allows the board to breathe, close it while in use to keep the water out.

Q: Does it HAVE TO have a vent?
A: Actually, no, I can add foam inside to displace the air. This makes it a bit more worry free, with only a slight gain in weight.

Q: They look nice, but do they surf?
A: HELL YES!! They are fast, SMOOTH, and they paddle very well, you will notice that the board has a very solid feel, and the weight is hardly noticeably in the water, other than the drive through the mushy sections.

Q: I would like to test drive one of your boards? Is that possible?
A: Absolutely! These are all that I surf anymore, so they are always in the water. We can swap boards in the water for a couple, as long as you know what you are doing and can stay out of the shorepound!

More Questions? Visit us at TimelessSurfCompany.com
Buy the book, get free blueprints now at
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com


8' CedarGlide Funshape

8'-0" x 22 x 2 7/8" 20 lbs
Cedar deck and bottom
Pine rails
Tri-fin funshape
O'Fish fin side boxes
LB style center box
Performance rails with
lots of rocker.
Modern leash plug
Front mounted vent screw

This board won't fizzle out in the weak sections like a foamy. The extra weight keeps you hauling hiney to the next section.

Buy the book, get free blueprints!
www.TimelessSurfCompany.com

Buy our Soft Cover @ Lulu.com

More Wooden Surfboard Builders