Easiest to build and cheaper to buy using 8' lumber!
8' x 34" W x 4 1/2" Thick
Just released! This new SUP design is easier to build using smaller
rail strips than the 11' model, and requires 8' lumber which is more
readily available. This little guy has almost as much volume as the
larger model but is much lighter and more maneuverable than its big
brother. At 34" wide it is nice and stable too!!
This model can carry riders up to 250lbs and usually weighs around
35lbs+or-, but weight can vary depending on your wood selection. You
can adjust the finished Paddle-board size from 10' - 12' long by
printing the plans at 90%-110%
8' SUP Plans & Manual
Monday, February 4, 2019
Dimensions: 11' x 30 3/4" W x 4 1/2" Thick
This is a nice "all around" Stand Up Paddleboard, a nice balanced design for all Paddleboarders whether you want to surf it or paddle around on lakes and rivers. This Paddle board is nice and wide and features a domed deck and thick rails. This model can carry riders up to 250lbs and usually weighs around 45lbs+or-, but weight can vary depending on your wood selection. You can adjust the finished Paddle-board size from 10' - 12' long by printing the plans at 90%-110%
11' SUP Plans & Manual
at 10:56 PM
What do you need in order to Build Your Own Hollow Wood Surfboard?
- SPINE- Plywood 3/8" Thick x 6" tall x (surfboard length) long *For 8’+ longboards, you can use an 8’ length and patch it together. See Pg 7 in the instructions
- RIBS- 1/8" Luan door skin/thin plywood/underlayment 4' x 8' sheet (for ribs)
- DECKING- (8) lengths of cedar (Board length) x 1/4" to 3/16" thick, 6" wide (for bottom and deck skins) *you can purchase (4) 1”x 6” thick cedar planks and rip them into (2) thinner pieces, then plane to desired thickness or ANY combination of widths adding up to 24” wide when glued together (or (30" wide for the SUP) 2”x4”s can be used but it just takes a lot of ripping and planing!
- RAILS- (1) 6"Wide x 3/4" thick (thicker for SUP) cedar board to cut into rail strips. See pg. 14
- Gorilla glue or comparable (Epoxy if you have the money)
- 1 can of Elmer’s Spray Adhesive or comparable (to glue blueprints to materials)
How much does all this cost?
Well, it depends a lot on your local prices and your choice of wood (reclaimed lumber saves you a lot of money) but locally I can get all the material from Lowe's or Home Depot for a bout $200 which includes resin and fiberglassing matting.
- Dewalt Handheld Jig Saw (Or comparable)
- Table Saw
- 12" Table Planer **(not needed if you rip 2x4s into 3/16s sliced)
- Small Block Plane
- Handheld Planer **or just use your hand plane and patience
- at least (20) medium/small spring clamps
- about (20) 8" to 24" bar clamps **(or you can use tape to glue the slats together if your stock is straight)
- (11) or so Pine 2x4s (2 at board length- for rocker jig, pg 8-9)
- 4' length of 4x4 (for ripping jig, pg 10-11) Be sure its straight and square!!! **Not needed if you rip 2x4s into 3/16 slices
- 2'x2' thin Luan plywood (for ripping jig) **Not needed if you rip 2x4s into 3/16 slices
- Rubber gloves (Gorilla glue is very difficult to get off of your skin!)
Choosing the right wood:
Choosing the materials for your new board can be tedious in itself, deciding which species to use and then finding workable stock will take some searching around. I highly recommend using cedar for these boards due to its light weight, mold resistance, and strength. Pine can also be used to save money, as it is cheaper and stronger than cedar, but weighs a bit more. Thin luan sheets can be used for decking, but the frame should also be filled with foam to reinforce and avoid soft spots on the deck. Luan also poses a problem with shaping the rails since the plys will show as wobbly stripes, and the lack of thickness give you less leeway while shaping. I have not experimented with other woods for this construction method, though I am pretty sure that redwood would work, but Balsa is too soft. Hardwoods such as Oak and Maple could be used, but it might turn out to be VERY heavy.
In any case, I recommend using knot free pieces when possible, as the knots have a tendency to get knocked out while planing, and make it more difficult to get a consistent rail, although you can replace any knots that are knocked out by wetting and rolling up planer shavings and gluing the material into the hole. Also, be sure to find pieces with minimal splits and blemishes, and as straight as possible. Luan door skin, underlayment OR comparable thin plywood should be used for the RIBS, and a good knot free sheet of 1/2" plywood should be used for the SPINE. Solid wood should not be used for the ribs and spine, as they have much more tendency to split and flex. Plywood is a lot more rigid for its size since it is made from several layers of wood stacked in cross grain patterns.
You are only as good as the tools you are working with. You can find out the hard way (like I did) or take my word for it. A cheap scroll saw will give you wiggly wobbly cuts, and dull blades will just make the work harder for you and more dangerous! I just upgraded to a nice solid DeWalt tool setup, and I cannot believe the difference in workability! Be sure to get a nice set-up and keep you tools clean and sharp.
Take your blueprint files to the local print shop to get a copy printed out, either get 2 copies (one for cutting and one for rail reference) or just one if you have computer access to check out the rail layout on the original blueprint file if needed.
If you are using the "tiled" version of the blueprints to print on your home computer, you will need to tape the sheets of paper together. The best way to do this is to lay your piece of plywood out on a pair of saw horses and mark a nice straight line down the entire length of the board. This will be your reference point for lining up either the horizontal line that is printed across the sheets, or edges of each sheet of paper. This will help you lay each sheet nice and square across the length. I prefer to start at one end of the lumber, laying the first sheet down and lining it up. Tape the top edge of the paper to hold it in place, then fold the sheet up, spray some glue on the wood, and then set it in place. Each sheet should overlay its neighbor until the cross hatch pattern lines up. You can repeat this process until your plans are all laid out to your liking.
My father always told me, "Don't be in a hurry to be a failure". This has helped me find the patience in most every project I have taken on, whether it be mechanics, art, or woodworking. This dedication can be seen in the construction details and finishing touches that make each board a work of art as well as a useable tool. The primary material used in construction is cedar, a very light weight wood with a variety of textures, colors and grain, providing excellent contrast and distinct patterns.
I have made surfboards of most every style and shape with various construction methods including foam, chambered wood, balsa, and pine, all of which have their pros and cons. All of these techniques and ideas have been combined to produce a board that is as fun and rewarding to build as it is to ride. Not as light as a foam board, but lighter than a comparable chambered board. They are more rigid and durable than most and, with proper care, a truly Timeless Design than can be cherished for many many years.
at 10:41 PM
Wood Surfboard Frequently Asked Questions:
A: Very comparable to a classic longboard. Usually around 20-30lbs, Stand-Up Paddleboards usually weigh 40lbs plus but these estimates can vary greatly depending on the wood selected.
Q: What about dings and durability?
A: These boards are stiffer than a foam board BEFORE they even get glassed. After they get the standard 6oz glass coat they are very solid. Dings will be more of a silver spot than an actual ding. I have yet to have a ding take on water or even dimple a board. I have had a few HARD knee drops on the rails and the result was a mild silver streak in the finish. Should you get a ding harsh enough to allow water to penetrate, it should be fixed as soon as possible as the wood will soak up water or worse yet, leak through a seam. They react just like foam boards, if they are neglected long enough it will lead to discoloration and delam, sometimes even warpage.
Q: What's that screw on the tail of the Paddleboard?
A: That is a small vent screw made of corrosion proof nylon. Since the board is hollow, the air inside will expand and contract when exposed to different temperatures. Leaving it open when not in use allows the board to breathe, close it while in use to keep the water out.
Q: Does my Surfboard/Paddleboard HAVE TO have a vent?
A: Actually, no, I can add foam inside to displace the air. This makes it a bit more worry free, with only a slight gain in weight. Now you can find Gore-tex vents that vent automatically without worry, Although 2 are required for the Paddleboards to allow more air to flow.
Q: They look nice, but do they surf?
A: HECK YEAH!! They are fast, SMOOTH, and they paddle very well, you will notice that the board has a very solid feel, and the weight is hardly noticeably in the water, other than the drive through the mushy sections.
Q: How long will it take me to build my own hollow wood surfboard/Standup Paddleboard?
A: Well, it's hard to say for sure, but I would say about a month for your first one, depending on your woodworking knowledge. It takes me about a week, since I have the jigs made and everything that I need.
Q: How long will it take to get my plans(or paddleboard kit)?
A: Plans and Ebook will be sent via email usually with 1 hour of purchase. Just have them printed and glue them to the wood, then start cutting! Kits usually arrive in 2-12 business days.
Q: Why do you think your blueprints/plans better?
A: Well, from my experiences, other "solid rail" building processes have a big flaw in the compound bend of the nose section. The miter edges on this area don't allow the rails to fully arc up with the nose section. You end up with either a flat nose, a slight "kink" in the board on each side of the nose, or a hole sanded through the decking trying to smooth it out. Some other plans are too loose in their design to be consistent, bending and gluing rails before attaching, which looks great on paper but once you release it from the jig, each side "releases" differently, changing the arc. Not to mention having square ribs that make your board either too thin or makes your rails too thick . That being said, they are great for making a nice "looking" board, but our shapes are designed to be consistent, manageable to build, and beyond "ride-able", they are truly Timeless designs that will perform and last for a very long time.
Q: How much will it cost me to build one of these wooden surfboards or Paddleboards?
A: It depends greatly on what kind of wood you use and where you buy it and also depending on which project you build. Mini Simmons and Fishs' are much cheaper and Paddleboards can be a bit more. You could make one for free using reclaimed lumber! If you bought all the wood at Lowe's or Home Depot, it should cost from $100-$200 (ripping cedar 2x6s) or alot more for pre-cut lumber or other species (not including glass)
Q: How much does it cost to glass one of these Surf/Paddle-boards?
A: Using cheap resin you could glass one for about $60, epoxy is about twice that amount, paying for it to get done can be $250 and up, depending.
Q: Why a cedar Paddleboard?
A: Cedar is a beautiful wood, the grain is very diverse, colors can vary dramatically for wonderful effects, it is light, cheap, mold and rot resistant, stronger than balsa, easy to work with, readily available, and to top it all off, it smells really good!
Q: Why should I build a wooden surfboard or Stand Up Paddle Board?
A: Why not?
at 10:36 PM
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